Did Chanel have a story this season? Debatable. Did I care? Not when the details were this good.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Matthieu Blazy continued his conversation with Gabrielle Chanel through a collection built around transformation, freedom and the many identities contained within one woman. But the real pleasure was found up close: in the small decisions that made the clothes feel alive.
The buttons, collars, jacket linings, cufflinks and contrast details all demanded a second look. Rolled-up sleeves revealed unexpected branding beneath, while unfinished hems, visible linings, lacing and exposed construction made the process of making clothes part of the design. Swallows and swifts appeared as buttons, jewellery and embroidery, adding a lightness to the house’s more familiar codes.
Blazy worked with the Chanel vocabulary, tweed, pearls, chains, two-tone shoes, flap bags and tailored jackets, but loosened and disrupted it through sheer knits, raw edges, low-slung skirts, cropped silhouettes and unexpected colour combinations. A blue-and-orange harlequin collar, tiger-print tweed and cloud-shaped bags made the collection feel playful rather than reverential.
Not every look was a winner looking at you, croc-embossed accessories. But there is something to be said for making familiar house codes feel this interesting, especially when the strongest ideas are hidden in the details rather than announced from a distance.
Gimme, gimme, gimme more Matthieu Blazy!
