Duran Lantink made his Haute Couture debut for Jean Paul Gaultier, and unsurprisingly, he played by his own rules.
The collection leaned into exaggerated silhouettes, surreal proportions and a kind of couture drama that felt both mischievous and highly constructed. Tubular gowns, sculptural forms and distorted body shapes gave the show its sharpest moments, while 3D-printed structures and engineered details pushed the house’s familiar excess into something more experimental.
What made the debut work was the way it echoed Gaultier’s legacy without becoming nostalgic. Lantink used references to corsetry, trompe l’oeil and theatrical dressing, but filtered them through his own instinct for distortion and humor. The result was a show that felt alive, strange and fully committed to the idea that couture can still surprise.
