If there was ever a moment to go all out, this was it. Beneath the Eiffel Tower, Saint Laurent went full gilded glamour: gold, shine and unapologetic excess.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Anthony Vaccarello dedicated the collection almost entirely to gold, transforming safari jackets, trench coats, tailored skirts, blouses and evening dresses into a procession of gilded icons. The shade appeared in every possible interpretation, from pale champagne and antique bronze to molten yellow, burnished lamé and deep metallic amber.
The setting matched the drama. Models walked beneath enormous candlelit chandeliers on a glossy black runway, with the illuminated Eiffel Tower glittering behind them. Gold brocade, guipure lace, pleated chiffon, latex, organza and metallic cotton made the clothes feel almost sculpted from light.
The collection also carried a strong archival sensibility. Sahariennes, sharply cut shoulders, wrap skirts, long evening silhouettes and dramatic jewellery recalled Yves Saint Laurent’s most recognisable codes, while Vaccarello’s sensual tailoring kept the result firmly in the present.
By the end, the shift to black was a welcome change of pace. The final looks brought velvet suits, sheer organza gowns, oversized bows and long trains back into focus — a darker, more severe counterpoint to the gold that came before.
Vaccarello certainly knows how to make an exit.
